Complications and iconic designs: Patek Philippe’s eight debuts showcase its fields of excellence

The manufacturer has extended its collection of complications with new chronographs.

5373P SPLIT-SECONDS MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH FOR LEFT-HANDERS.

A highly exclusive timepiece for left-handers and connoisseurs

Launched in 2010, the manually wound CHR 27-525 PS Q caliber has established itself as the thinnest split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar movement ever produced (7.3 mm thick). Since 2017, it has been offered in a platinum model with a sunburst blue dial (5372P001) or a rose-gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (5372P-010).

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind 1927 timepiece, Patek Philippe has created a new, highly original version of this timepiece designed for lefthanders: a first in the recent history of the Manufacture. This further enhances the exclusivity of the split-seconds chronograph, one of the Manufacture’s most sought-after Grand Complications.

The platinum case can be distinguished by its crown (with integrated chronograph monopusher) located at 9 o’clock and its split-seconds pusher placed in an original position at 8 o’clock. It retains its elegance, with a polished concave bezel providing a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire crystal, recessed and satin-finished flanks, as well as finely curved lugs and spring bars adorned with decorative cabochons.

Patek Philippe has also reworked the aesthetics of the charcoal gray dial with a black-gradient rim, inverted counters/apertures and snailed ebony black counters contrasting with the vertical satin finish decoration. The chronograph displays (central chronograph and split-seconds hands, 60-minute counter hand at 9 o’clock) are distinguished by their red varnished color. On this model, the small seconds counter is positioned at 3 o’clock and the moon phase at

6 o’clock, while the two round apertures for leap-year and day/night indications respectively appear between 10 and 11 o’clock and between 1 and 2 o’clock.

The sporty and contemporary touch is also expressed in the blac calfskin leather strap with embossed fabric pattern and contrasting red stitching, equipped with a platinum fold-over clasp. The new 5373P-001 comes with an interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case backs. Like all Patek Philippe models in platinum, it features a brilliant-cut diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock. This new Grand Complication model replaces References 5372P-001 and 5372P-010.
 

5204G SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH. PERPETUAL CALENDAR

A new interpretation in white gold with sunburst olive-green dial 

Combining two of Patek Philippe’s most iconic Grand Complications, the split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar Reference 5204 has been available since 2021 in a rose gold version with a slate gray dial and strap (5204R-011). The Manufacture has revisited the style of this great classic by giving it a white gold case with an olive-green dial enhanced by a sunburst decoration that plays with the light and by a black-gradient rim creating a subtle depth effect. 

The watch is paired with a shiny olive-green calfskin leather strap featuring contrasting beige stitching and secured by a white gold fold-over clasp. The entirely hand-polished case is distinguished by its refined construction, notably featuring a concave bezel, two-tier lugs and round chronograph pushers. The harmonious dial layout, highlighted by the contrast between olive-green and white, ensures optimal legibility of the multiple displays: day and month in a double in-line aperture at 12 o’clock, date hand and moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock, small seconds and instantaneous 30-minute counter in two finely snailed subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock. 

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – indications enabling accurate calendar settings. Time readings by day or night are facilitated by applied baton-style faceted hour markers and white gold faceted dauphine hands, all with luminescent coating. The transparent sapphire case back (interchangeable with a solid case back) enables one to admire all the technical complexity and manual finishing of CHR 29-535 PS Q caliber – with its traditional construction (manually wound, two column wheels, horizontal clutch) combined with seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism. The new Reference 5204G-001 in white gold joins the existing rose gold Reference 5204R-011 in the collection.

5935A WORLD TIME. FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. 

A first-ever steel version with a sporty and vintage look 

Launched in 2016, Reference 5930 combines two iconic Patek Philippe complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a World Time function. It was introduced in a white gold version with a blue dial and strap (5930G-001 then 5930G-010), complemented in 2021 by a platinum version with a green dial and strap (5930P-001). Patek Philippe reinterprets this cult model in its first version in steel – a rare metal within the Manufacture’s collections. 

The vintage-inspired rose-gilt opaline dial features a center bearing a “carbon” motif that gives the watch a sporty and dynamic touch. To ensure perfect legibility, the applied baton-type hour markers and dauphine hands are in charcoal gray white gold, all with white luminescent coating. The World Time function displays the time in 24 time zones simultaneously, with an exclusive patented mechanism that corrects all displays with a simple press of the pusher at 10 o’clock. The enlarged case diameter (41mm vs. 39.5mm), giving more space to the city disk, has optimized its legibility and further asserted the personality of the model. 

The central chronograph hand is complemented by a finely snailed instantaneous 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock. Thanks to the vertical disk clutch ensuring minimal wear, the central chronograph hand can also be used to display the running seconds. The flyback function instantaneously enables a new timing operation while the chronograph is already running. A transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the construction and refined finishing of self-winding CH 28-520 HU caliber. This watch comes with two calfskin straps – grained taupe (originally fitted) and beige with nubuck finish (additional strap) – secured by a steel fold-over clasp. The new Reference 5935A-001 joins 5930P-001 in the collection, as 5930G-010 has been discontinued in 2022.

7968/300R AQUANAUT LUCE “RAINBOW” CHRONOGRAPH

The first self-winding chronograph for women joins the Aquanaut Luce collection in a joaillerie version 

Patek Philippe presents its “contemporary casual chic” Aquanaut Luce model in its first version equipped with a chronograph movement. This new model is also the first Patek Philippe self-winding chronograph for women. This extension reflects the dynamism of the feminine range, following the 2021 launch of the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R. The Manufacture has lavished all its creativity and jewelry-making expertise on endowing this rose gold timepiece with precious ornamentation. The octagonal bezel is adorned with a double row of baguette-cut gems set using the “invisible setting” technique.

The inner row is set with 40 white baguette-cut diamonds (2.05 cts), the outer row (set at a slight angle) with 40 baguette-cut sapphires (2.31 cts) in the colors of the rainbow, carefully selected to form a perfect gradient. The white mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the typical Aquanaut motif is adorned with 12 applied rose gold hour markers set with baguette-cut sapphires (0.31ct) in a gradient reproducing that of the bezel. The rose gold hour and minute hands with white luminescent coating are accompanied by rose gold applied numerals.

The architecture of the 39.9mm-diameter case, as well as the chronograph pushers, are enhanced by alternating polished and satin finishes. Self-winding caliber CH 28-520 is distinguished by its vertical disk clutch, its central chronograph hand that can be used as a running seconds hand, its 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock (in white mother-ofpearl on this model), and its flyback function enabling instantaneous restarting of a new timekeeping operation while the chronograph is already running. Its refined finishing is visible through a transparent sapphire case back. To match any mood, this new model comes with three straps in ultraresistant composite material: red (originally fitted), matte beige and matte white (additional straps). The Patek Philippe-patented foldover clasp is set with ten baguette-cut diamonds (0.36 ct).

5990/1A FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. TRAVEL TIME

A new version in steel with a sunburst blue dial featuring a black-gradient rim 

2006, the year of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, saw the introduction of Reference 5980/1, Nautilus flyback chronograph. This model was joined in 2014 by Reference 5990/1, Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, initially offered in a steel version (5990/1A-001), complemented in 2021 by a rose gold version (5990/1R-001). As the successor to the 5990/1A-001, Patek Philippe has revisited the steel version by combining it with a new blue dial featuring a radiant sunburst pattern and a black-gradient rim. A perfect example of legibility, this dial is enhanced by the horizontally embossed motif typical of Nautilus watches and is adorned with applied hour markers and white gold rounded baton-style hands, all with luminescent coating. The case water-resistant to 120m, octagonal bezel, chronograph pushers (at 2 and 4 o’clock), local time pushers (at 9 o’clock) and steel bracelet are enhanced by elegantly alternating polished and satin finishes. Self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS caliber combines three useful and practical complications: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (dual time zone with two central hour hands, one of which is skeletonized for home time) and a date indicated by hand (at 12 o’clock) coupled with the local time. Its original construction combines tradition (column-wheel drive) and the avant-garde (vertical disk clutch). The flyback function enables instant restarting of timing operation without first having to stop the hands. The central chronograph hand can also be used as a running seconds display. The steel bracelet with patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches, is equipped with a new lockable adjustment system that makes it possible to gain 2 or 4 mm in length thanks to simple, quick and secure handling, thus ensuring greater comfort in everyday life. The new Reference 5990/1A-011 replaces Reference 5990/1A-001 and joins the existing Reference 5990/1R-001 in the collection.

5811 /1G DATE. SWEEP SECONDS.

A reinterpretation of an iconic design incorporating subtle evolutions and technical innovations 

From 2006 to 2021, the Nautilus Reference 5711/1 established itself as one of the most sought-after watch models, first in various steel versions and then from 2015 onwards in a rose gold iteration. Patek Philippe is starting a new chapter in the history of this elegant sports icon with a white gold reinterpretation, combined with a sunburst blue dial with black-gradient rim. Featuring a slightly larger diameter than the previous Reference 5711/1 (41mm vs. 40mm), the new model features a blue dial with a black-gradient rim, applied hour markers and rounded baton-style hands, all in white gold with white luminescent coating. The date disk at 3 o'clock, highlighted by a white gold aperture frame, features the “40 years” font. In addition to these specific features, this watch that is water-resistant to 120m also stands out for several technical characteristics. The case featuring a two-part construction (case middle/case back and bezel) – a nod to the original 1976 Nautilus model – is combined with a new pull-out piece lever system enabling the winding stem to be removed from the dial side, without requiring access through the back (patent pending). This device is designed to replace the previous “split stem” system. The white gold bracelet is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches, and a new lockable adjustment system serving to gain 2 or 4 mm in length thanks to simple, quick and secure handling, thus ensuring greater comfort in everyday life. The distinctive construction of the Nautilus is enhanced by the subtle interplay of hand-crafted satin and polished finishes on the bezel, case and bracelet requiring 55 operations for each watch. Self-winding 26-330 S C caliber – visible through a transparent sapphire case back – is equipped with a “stop seconds” device enabling the time to be set to the exact second. To accompany the new Reference 5811/1G-001, Patek Philippe has also created white gold cufflinks featuring a sunburst blue center with black-gradient rim and horizontally embossed motif.

5712/1R MOON PHASES.

A new version with rose gold case and bracelet and sunburst brown dial 

Heir to the first Nautilus with complications (Reference 3712/1, 2005), Reference 5712/1 was launched in 2006 for the collection’s 30th anniversary. Since then, it has been a great success in a steel version featuring a blue dial with black-gradient rim. (5712/1A-001). Patek Philippe has reinterpreted this flagship model with a rose gold case and bracelet and a sunburst brown dial with black-gradient rim, creating a warm harmony with the shimmering metal. In addition to the hours and minutes, ultra-thin self-winding 240 PS IRM C LU caliber displays with perfect legibility small seconds at 4 o'clock, as well as three complications: a power-reserve indication between 10 and 11 o'clock; a date indicated by hand at 7 o'clock, surrounding a moon-phase display. The original layout of the dial functions gives the watch a characteristic and highly recognizable appearance. The readability of the dial with its typical Nautilus horizontally embossed motif is enhanced by applied hour markers and rounded baton-type hour and minute hands, all in rose gold with white luminescent coating. The case water-resistant to 60m, octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet featuring three rows of links are enhanced by an elegant contrast between the hand-crafted polished and satin finishes. The rose gold bracelet with patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp, secured by four independent catches, is equipped with a new lockable adjustment system serving to gain 2 or 4 mm in length thanks to its simple, quick and secure handling, thus ensuring greater comfort in daily life. The new rose gold Reference 5712/1R-001 joins the steel version featuring a blue dial with a black-gradient rim. This model is also available in rose gold and white gold with alligator leather straps (References 5712R-001 and 5712G-001).

7118/1300R NAUTILUS JOAILLERIE.

A new jewelry interpretation set with spessartites in a “cognac” to “champagne” color gradient 

Patek Philippe reinterprets the iconic design of the ladies’ Nautilus in a new jewelry version in which rose gold is elegantly and uniquely combined with the brilliance of spessartites – gemstones belonging to the garnet family and featuring various warm, luminous shades. The octagonal bezel with softened angles is adorned with a row of 68 baguette-cut spessartites (2.04 cts) composing a double color gradient ranging from ‘cognac’ tones at 12 and 6 o'clock to ‘champagne’ shades at 9 and 3 o'clock. A dynamic touch endowing this precious creation with a resolutely modern style. The dial completes this chromatic harmony with eleven ogival-shaped cognac-colored spessartite hour markers (0.34 ct) standing out against the rose-gilt dial with the “waves” pattern typical of ladies’ Nautilus models. Brown lacquered varnished rose gold alpha-style hands enhance legibility – a key requirement for Patek Philippe, even on a jewelry watch. A rose gold aperture frame highlights the date display at 6 o'clock. The 35.2mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 60m. Its iconic porthole-inspired design and the beveled bezel are enhanced by the contrast between polished and satin finishes, hand-crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture. The integrated rose gold bracelet also features polished center links as well as side links that are satin-finished on top and polished on the sides. It is equipped with a Patek Philippe patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. Self-winding 324 S C caliber with its refined finishing is visible through a transparent sapphire case back. The new Reference 7118/1300R-001 joins the ladies’ Nautilus self-winding models with brilliant-cut diamond-set bezels: Reference 7118/1200R-001 (with silvery opaline dial) and Reference 7118/1200R-010 (with rose-gilt opaline dial).